Sexy nose, it’s perfumed to the hilt in phoney Rhoney way. That’s not to dismiss it, this shows Canberra’s ability to consistently turn out a Côte-Rôtie style with an Australian bent.

It’s captivating stuff, a gorgeous tapestry of red fruits, roses, violets and white pepper. Search underneath and there’s cinnamon and cardamom lurking and what I’d call a meaty pan juice essence. The Viognier adds to this lift with a sweetness, but it’s not distracting.

The palate shows more of the redcurrant flavour infused with a bovine charm, like a medium rare steak. There’s a suppleness and a sexy, savoury sensation before very stylish acids fill out the finish. Boy does it persist too, there’s some real spicy length that keeps on delivering well after you’ve taken a sip. I love it. It’s nicely affirming to see a style like this but I imagine only a small amount was produced, so if you see it around, jump on it.

Region: Canberra district
Alcohol:13.5%
Cost: $40
Source: sample