20 Feb2012

The Story Westgate Vineyard Blanc Marsanne Rousanne Viognier 2011 $28 13%

The second vintage of this Rhone blend from small batch specialist Rory lane, see’s fruit selected from five rows off the Westgate vineyard in the Grampians. Barrel Fermented with wild yeast in older French barriques, no malo, then left on yeast lees for 8 months.

It has a captivating dough like and floral expression, honey, nuts and minerals add interest and plenty of intrigue has been created by time in barrel while the fruit spectrum tends to be citrus and apricot like. The mouthfeel is a sensuous, full bodied affair, with texture proving the key. It rolls and lumbers magnificently making way for a lifted perfumed, floral character that’s quite heightened and redolent of bath salts. There’s a flavour of minerals coated in lemon juice, a slight warmth that I find comforting and keen acids that weigh in on the finish. A really interesting field blend that I would keep drinking well after the first glass.

The Story Henty Estate Shiraz 2010 $45 13.5%

More garage action from Rory Lane and his Story wines, each telling a unique tale of terroir. From 20 year old vines this wine was unfined and unfiltered and then consigned to 25% new French oak, the rest older.

It’s been open 12 hours now as I gave it a test drive last night, but it’s opened up beautifully showing an intensity of fruit that is entrancing. Blackberry, raspberry and briar do their bit while 50% whole bunch has added layers of peppery spice, there’s a suggestion of cinnamon and violets too, but it’s a seamless perfume.

Intense and concentrated in the mouth, vital fruit makes way for a wave of spice and some well managed tannins that coat the mouth before it keeps pushing on through the long finish. I’d buy some and watch it develop, as it’s just going to get better with age, having said that you could drink now without hesitstion just ensure a decent decant. Big respect for this.

The Story Garden Gully Vineyard Grampians Shiraz 2010 $45 13.5%

Quite a different story here and more a study of Grampian soil with a rich tapestry of tales to be told via the Garden Gully site. The vineyard is a century old and this fruit was harvested when in perfect and optimum condition according to Lane. It has a more muscular edge, a robust sense of earth, and spice. The fruit seems quite pure, oak is well integrated, you sense it but it’s not overplayed. A big mouthful of texture cascades generously, revealing wave after wave of intense red fruits, pepper and middle eastern spice. The whole bunch effect can be felt but it’s judicious rather than obvious. It’s a complete wine that’s drinking well now, the tannins nicely seamless, the persistence impressive on the finish. Nicely complex and layered for the price. Jump aboard, it’s a Story that needs to be told. Be quick, only 150 dozen produced.

The artisan touch: Mr Lane hand writes the wine details on each bottle.

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