This is an uneven and impossibly over ripe casualty of vintage, it smells of overuse of oak too. There’s fruit but it’s like a bubbling pot of blackberry compote infused with licorice and earth. Nothing subtle here. It’s dense, unbalanced, falls around the palate in all directions without purpose and delivers nothing more than an alcoholic sensation. Very lack lustre stuff and almost too hard for me to rate. 84

Region: Langhorne Creek
Alcohol: 15.5%
Cost: $25
Source: Sample

As we sat down to lunch at Quay, we noticed the latest creation of Quay’s Peter Gilmore. It was a dessert covered in something the menu described as ethereal sheets. The wine media on the table bet no-one could get that term in a tasting note. I said that at home I demanded to sleep in nothing less than ethereal sheets but I don’t think it counted. Sadly there were no Pinots in the line up to tag ethereal, however there was  a fascinating cross section of aged and current release  wines assembled from the Wolf Blass portfolio.

The Eagle had definitely descended on Circular Quay as you can tell by the photo above, a slice of guerrilla marketing in the form of the Wolf Blass emblem  to mask the circular top room at Quay. On hand were winemakers Caroline Dunn and Matt O’ Leary to talk us through the vintages and winemaking decisions that were currently shaping the Blass vision.

Caroline Dunn has been at Blass since ’97 an was responsible for helping blend the ’98 Black Label that won the Jimmy Watson. She talked about maintaining the consistency but also having the abilty to evolve the wines, however she warned as many young winemakers come in  to the Blass HQ with gun ho ideas, it’s all about maintaining what Wolf Blass stands for and adhering to a house style.

(For those who frequent this blog, I’ve never made much of a fuss about scoring but sometimes these verticles are very different to how I would taste at home so for the sake of interest I’ve attached my score after the note for those of you who have a numerical bent.)

First Bracket Grey Label

1967 was the first vintage and it was always destined to be a regional depiction of  Langhorne Creek always a blend of Cabernet and Shiraz and not made if the fruit quality was not up to scratch. As an aside Caroline talked of different winemaking regimes; In the early days acidity was pursued and seen as the most important aspect but in the last decade it’s been about  increasing profile in the tannins, looking for tannin that lend structure through the palate. In the affordable Blass wines that  equates to softness but in the premium it’s how tannins can create better structure.

2004 Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon

Hall marks of Langhorne Creek on the  nose. Good development but still wonderfully fresh, proof the Langhorne does Cabernet well, blackcurrant and chocolate, rich core of peppermint pattie too. Good structure to the palate, fruit seems quite elegant, quite a drying tannin weight but longevity plus on the finish. Looked more like a three year old wine with a promising future ahead of it. 93

2010 Grey Label Cabernet Shiraz Malbec – a blend in 10 as it made a better blend, the quintessential Aussie blend.

Deep intoxicating black fruits more in the mould of a classic red blend, lots of chocolate and dark red fruit flavor, quite drying tannins and still very firm – hints of eucalypt and dried herbs.  Structure in spades. 94

 The Grey Label Shiraz: became a McLaren Vale wine in 2004 as they saw this as a healthy synergy  with Cabernet from Langhorne  displaying regions that abut each other.

2004 Grey Label Shiraz

The youth is still there, black fruits and chocolate, underlying mintiness, plush fruit palate it gathers and rolls with assured grace in black cloaked harmony with lithe tannin and spice. Structure is excellent. Length too. Ageing well.  90

2010 Grey Label Shiraz

Amazing colour from an amazing vintage, darker and swarthier with  more savoury dark fruit expression on the nose, plum,  dark chocolate and mint. Lovely concentration,weight and density here, captivating expression of blackcherry and impressive length. 94

Black Label 

Originally the blend of fruit was Langhorne Creek but it became a red that was blended from different regions, including the Clare and Eden, not getting that eucalypt regionality, more a Black label multi-region that harmonised more than one specific place, not overtly Langhorne Creek, just the house style.

1978 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

Amazing freshness evident here, oak pokes out a bit but there’s a black tea complexion, some leafiness and of course cedary blackcurrant fruit. Soft, supple medium bodied at just 12.5%, with hints of tobacco and cedar, nicely sprightly and soft on the palate, a delightful drink. 93

1985 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

Much more in a fruitcake mould, damson, this had not aged so well, plum , mocha and choc, softness plus with a black fruit and cold tea expression, an aged wine that has been tamed by the years and looks gentle and anything but monolithic. Very gentle tannins and spice. Softer on the finish. 90

1996 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

Great ability to age is shown here, lovely dark fruit, with a load more oak, black cherry, choc, intensity plus with a supple and generous palate that’s got good intensity and concentration. Great core of dark fruit and spice. 94

 2002 Black Label Shiraz Cabernet Malbec

More restrained, delightful palate weight, a touch earthen with black fruit and spice, lovely freshness to the supple palate with a good black fruit intensity and long spicy finish. Showing its age well. 93

 2008 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

 Intense, perhaps verging on overripe, blackcurrant, chocolate and spice, oak plays a part with a spike of vanillin, but the concentration seems lacking here. It’s a bit tough and the tannins seem to drying but it’s not a stand out and ends warm. 89

 Platinum Label:

This wine is Caroline Dunn’s baby. First vintage was in ’98 and the aim was to make the best Shiraz of the vintage. Wolf Blass needed an iconic Shiraz as Shiraz was such an integral part of  the Australian winescape. Platinum is all about singularity, the region, the vintage, the quintessential Shiraz expression. All wines are made with French oak.

 1998 Platinum Label Shiraz

Great colour, intensity plus on the nose, dark brambly fruit, oak is dominant but fits the mould of what is essentially and old school style. Soft and supple with a core of brambly chocolate and vanillin flavours. It’s what I would have described as a crowd pleasing wine but not my favourite of the bracket. Was under cork and Dunn mentioned it had shown marked differences between bottles. 90

2002 Platinum Label Shiraz (Barossa)

High octane nose, rich and laden with a mineral aspect, dark spices and earth. The palate is a rich mélange of mocha and black cherry, lots of lovely rolling fruit with a gathering momentum and good staying power. Product of a great vintage. 94

 2004 Platinum Label Shiraz (Barossa)

Dark fruit signature, impenetrable, lovely jam intensity without being jammy, cooked cherries and plums, amazing texture of fruit and tannin serving equal roles. It chugs along with purpose and intent, rolling spice and concentrated finish. Very impressive. 94

2009 Platinum Label Shiraz

Great intensity of colour,  deep purple with claret rim, amazing intensity of plum and currant fruit,  dark chocolate, structured tannins, a lifted elegance of violets, blueberry , earth and expresso grounds. It falls with grace and presence and delivers spice and structured tannins. 95

This was a great tasting as it disproved some pre-conceptions of Wolf Blass wines  I may have had. One of those was issues with oak or the supposed heavy handling of oak, I could see the use in some of the mid 2000 wines but mostly across the board it was in balance.

Longevity of these wines, just looking at the youthfulness of the ’04 Grey label and the ’78 Cabernet showed that these wines were set for the long haul and looked great.

I’d like to thank Treasury Wine Estates for having me to the tasting and illuminating my limited experience of the Wolf Blass wines, oh and for getting Peter Gilmore to rustle up those ethereal sheets.

Bremerton The Coulthard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 $22 14.5%

I don’t see enough wine from Langhorne Creek, wish I saw more, but Bec Willson has always turned out the goods and the 2010 vintage is full of swagger and generosity. This has a smoky fruit element, it smells of dusty cocoa and plum with a clay, earthen aspect. There’s also a vanilla oak and spice element that’s quite attractive. It’s got all that Langhorne Creek spice, mint pattie thing going on, quite seductive as well, it’s layered and feels round on the palate. Vibrant blackcurrant, gravelly tannins and alluring spice on the finish. Good wine for the price.

Bremerton Selkirk Shiraz 2010 $22 14.5%

I love the dark berry aromas here, luscious, sweet, some chocolate and layered oak and then the gorgeous delivery of sweet black cherry, layered and integrated with subtle oak before well balanced tannins and a really good persistence.This has an opulent richness that you know will match perfectly with charred barbecue dishes and be a crowd pleaser all round.

On opening there was quite a rich whack of oak but it seemed fitting and soon blew off to reveal vibrant fruit that was black cherried and jubey,a hit of vanillin, some cooked meats and dark chocolate notes. Luscious palate weight, layered and textured with a fruit profile that’s dark and alluring. It’s big and makes a statement, oak is prominent but in fits the mould, everything is balanced with good tannins and spicy length. A wine for food unquestionably making for a full-bodied, opulent drinking experience.

Region: Langhorne Creek
Alcohol: 15%
Cost: $50
Source: Sample

Penfolds Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling 2011 $32.95 11%

The one Penfolds white in the Bin Range and they hedged their bets on an Eden Valley Riesling which was probably a wise decision considering the 2011 vintage. Ahh, slatey minerals or limey pavers to be precise, a touch of lemon dappled with honey. Tastes minerally too, almost chalky, before a large wave of citrus goodness rides across the palate with gentle and spicy intensity. Clean, precise line that’s dry on the finish with a mouth-watering acidity.

Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $64.99 14%

Bin there done that, well I might be getting late to these releases but it’s still an interesting part of Australian wine culture to see the Penfold Bin releases despite the hoopla and the chutzpah.

It smells elegant, regal, a bit of stature and poise. Layers of blackcurrant, anise, violets, mocha coffee, bitter chocolate, ink, a slight hit of menthol and  an aroma that’s like a delicately reduced sauce. Oak supports but not in an obvious way. Layered on the palate too with reams of black fruit, lovely structured tannins with great fruit intensity. Glossy, long and persistent with a plethora of spice and hinting at a great future ahead, 15 years might be a good time to revisit.

Penfolds Marananga Shiraz $74.99 14.5%

From the bowels of the Barossa comes one of the top flight Bins and only it’s second vintage I believe. It’s like an indulgent black cherry gateau topped with kirsch and chocolate flakes and layered with black fruit that have been mascerated in alcohol, the oak is nicely integrated. It ‘s a seductive texture as it enters the palate, brilliant vivid black cherries bounce around before a cacophony of intense spice. There’s plum and coffee, some licorice strap and a hint of roasted meats. It lingers nicely with some warmth delivering a Shiraz that hints at a sense of region, with its own inimitable personality. It needs food but this is a Shiraz with pizazz.

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2009 $74.99 14.5%

I remember when I bought the ‘98 389 it cost me less than $40, now it’s a hefty $75 I’m not sure I’d be similarly compelled unless it was really special.

I tried the 2006 recently and found the oak far too dominant but this seems much more integrated, although American oak has always been an integral part of this wine. Blackcurrant, chocolate, a hit of menthol and spice play the nose with a lifted perfume before a thoroughly integrated palate. Good texture, intense black fruit, coffee grounds and then a wonderful persistence that ensures if you pay $75 you will get your moneys worth if this is your thing. That thing being bold, layered reds with nicely integrated tannins that celebrate the multi-regional blend.

Zontes Footstep Doctoressa Di Lago Pinot Grigio 2011 13% $16.50

Typical weird arse names from the irrepressible and imaginative Zar Brooks, the Lake Doctor pays homage to the cooling breezes that come off Lake Alexandrina to nearby Langhorne Creek. As I tried this at  Christmas time I’ll tell you that this white was like the beginning Old King Wenceleslas: nice and crisp and even. No frills just an honest shoot from the hip Italian Grigio style with the essence of pear and citrus. Clean and structured, crisp and enjoyable with pear drops and spice, some nicely sculpted acids and passably long finish.

Zontes Footstep The Love Symbol Savagnin 2011 12.4%

Okay, so we can’t keep Albarino, and we are stuck with Savagnin. But will Savagnin stick in consumers heads and will it ever be another niche white that people point at and say ‘I like that one but I can’t pronounce it’. Last time I reviewed this wine it was called Savagnin Blanc which was even more misleading, so I’m pleased to see it’s now just plain old Savignin.

Really vibrant nose of peach and other tropical fruits, mango slices and tangerine. The texture is key, it starts a little unctuous but delivers a swathe of tropicality and a sweetness that I find a bit much. There’s a hint of spice on the finish but it’s all there in terms of a consumer friendly white that’s a point of difference from Sauvignon Blanc.

Zonte’s Footstep Sea Mist Verdelho 2011 12.5% $16.50

One day I dream of seeing a description of Verdelho that does not mention ‘terrific with Asian food’. I wonder if in the back streets of Bangkok or Hanoi they have a dozen bottles of chilled Verdelho raring to go for all those people who have not been brainwashed into thinking this. Now I’ve got the subliminal food and wine matching out the way lets see what this Portuguese descended performer is all about. More that just your average tropical aromas, some orange, nectarine and honey complexity before a tsunami of fresh fruit, zingy and zesty acids, some spicy notes and a clean, long finish.

Zonte’s Footsteps Lake Doctor Shiraz Viognier 2009 14.5% $19.95

Blinged up on the front label thanks to a double Gold win from the San Francisco wine show. It’s perfumed with the sweet lift of Viognier perhaps to the detriment of the Shiraz but sweet black fruits are also in attendance. The palate continues the theme with a plummy expression that’s also lively with sweet fruit as well as soft silky mouthfeel before a spicy persistence that’s a little hot. Good barbecue quaffer but I’m not feeling quite as generous as the judges in San Fran.

I’ve not had a Penfolds wine to just sit on and drink for ages, and I don’t taste them very often because I’m not sent their wines. I should probably have a word with someone on the pay roll. I need not go into the reputation of 389, the last vintage I had plenty of was the ’98, a wine I really enjoyed in its later years.

With five years of age I would have thought this would have had time to relax but this wine took ages to unwind, on day two it still hasn’t. The oak was the issue to begin with, it was blocky and oppressive. Two hours in the glass and it had dissipated a little, but not enough for it to be completely enjoyable. Thankfully having a second look is always worth a shot. Yes, it’s still oaky but far more integrated.

Blueberries and blackcurrants hustle together with licorice and char, a touch of menthol and cedar as well as wood spices and vanillin notes. Glorious texture and fruit power with blackcurrant and fennel seeds, cedary oak and  rolling spice notes that gain momentum on the long finish. Undoubtedly a keeper, the oak and grainy tannins only really gelling after 18 hours. Don’t judge a book by its cover, or a wine by its oak it would seem. Check back in another five or ten years I reckon.

Region: Barossa, McLaren Vale,  Langhorne Creek
Alcohol: 14.5%
Cost: $55-60
Source: Cellar

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Lagrein 2009 14.5% $22

Busy man Geoff Hardy flitting from variety to variety and country to country. This comes from Italy via Langhorne Creek. It’s charged with cherries, minerals, licorice and a suggestion of leather. Nicely savoury and reminiscent of clodden earth. Intense red berry fruit palate with hints of anise, robust Mediterranean herbs, and chalky, fine tannins, before a concentrated spicy finish. I have to say it’s big and bold but for $22 it’s a really good investment.

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Graciano 2009 14% $22

Well here’s a first for me, an Australian Graciano out of Langhorne Creek. It smells of smoky red fruits, almost a pinosity about it. There’s a cherry and black cherry, white pepper and notes of cumin that add a pleasant savoury appeal. Nicely light weight it tastes of redcurrants and has a leathery, grainy tannin texture with a sprightly core of acids running through. A tapas wine, think chargilled chorizo or manchego croquettes.

It kicks off with baked apples and yeast notes, in fact it could be a vivid apple Danish, notes of strawberry and cherry lurk underneath. The palate delivers, a creaminess and then a crunch from the fresh acids. It delivers the aforementioned apples with more yeasty, vegemite notes and ends fairly dry with admirable length. A bubbly that’s a step in the right direction.

Ripe fresh berries with an aromatic lift (there’s a splash of Viognier added), a bit of stewed plum a touch of licorice and some American oak. Altogether nicely regional, more in McLaren Vale generosity yet with a touch of Langhorne spice and the faintest whiff of mint.

It’s got some rich red berry flavours and earthy spice with a lick of coconut and a touch of vanillin oak. It’s altogether a tasty little package for the price but imagine it needs a good slab of meat to compliment it further.

Region: McLaren Vale/ Langhorne Creek
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 14.5%
Source: Sample
Price: $17

It’s got spicy brambly fruit, a bit of plum, a tad of licorice, a lick of regional mint and a smidge of vanillin oak. It’s all blackcurrants and leather with an abundance of spice, there’s also  a fair whack of alcohol but wears it well as the acids kick in and reveal a long spicy, fruit finish.

Region: Langhorne Creek
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 14.5%
Source: Sample
Price: $22

Region: Langhorne Creek, Australia
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 14.5%
Source: Sample
Price: $21.50

Region: Langhorne Creek
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 14%
Source: Sample
Price: $22.00

Region: Langhorne Creek
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 14%
Source: Sample
Price: $22.00

Region: Langhorne Creek, Australia
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 14.5%
Source: Sample
Price: $21.50

Aromatic nose of musk and nashi pears, banana and lychee. Lovely textured palate with a clean citrus lift and really crunchy acid finish. A great wine for a simple lunch in the sun.

Region: Langhorne Creek, Australia
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 12%
Source: Sample
Price: $14.95